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Culinary students bring flavor to college

Emery's now open on campus three days per week to students, community

Loren Kelly

Issue date: 10/6/08 Section: Entertainment
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Not many study know that there is more to school food than what is offered in the SUB. Emery's, a restaurant staffed by culinary students, has been serving high quality eats from inside the Hedlund Building since 1993.

Stepping into Emery's restaurant can be deceiving. The atmosphere is somewhere between a sterile college classroom and an upscale, nursing home cafeteria. The simple porcelain mugs and water glasses are reminiscent of a roadside diner in anytown, U.S.A.

Despite the atmosphere, the food is on point. During the opening week, Emery's offered a breakfast menu, served with fresh-baked, complimentary muffins and coffee cake. Lighter than your average coffee cake and with a well-balanced sweetness, the baked goods served as a delicious appetizer.

The main course was split between juevos rancheros and biscuits and gravy, both of which were recommended by the head chef. Featuring in-house refried beans, the juevos rancheros were solid. A fried tortilla, layered with refried beans, over-easy eggs and topped with pico de gallo, the dish is just heavy enough to compensate for a good time the night before.

The biscuits and gravy, specifically the gravy, was the highlight of the meal. A béchamel sauce thickened by roux (a mixture of flour and butter sautéed to add color, texture), the gravy exploded with flavor and was complemented with pork sausage and light Italian seasoning. The house-made biscuits were hearty and had a thin, crunchy crust, which added just a bit of resilient texture to the outstanding flavor of the dish.

The service couldn't have been better. Maria Nella Baker, a 27-year old culinary student from Lima, Peru, served up breakfast with a smile and shared some of her culinary aspirations.

"I want people around here to (get to) know Peruvian food," Baker said, "possibly through a catering business."

The culinary program is an all-inclusive study of the food service industry in which students cycle through both ends of the trade. Front of the house duties include customer relations and table service, while kitchen positions include preparation, line cooking and baking stations, among others.

Head chef and instructor Rick Schultz has been running Emery's since it opened in the SUB in 1990. Schultz expressed how enjoyable it is to see a young cook gain confidence and expertise over the course of a semester. He was also quick to point out the difference in work environment between Emery's and other restaurants.

"You can fire employees, but you can't fire students," Shultz said jokingly.

The students learn mostly by gaining hands on experience in the kitchen. According to instructor Jeff Jenkins, they spend about a quarter of their class hours in the actual classroom. The rest is in the restaurant.

Emery's is open 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m Tuesday through Thursday. Beginning on Tuesday, Emery's will offer a three-course lunch menu. It's quite a bargain, considering the meals range from $4 to $6. To make reservations call 769-7763.
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