The NIC Sentinel

Issue date: 11/24/08 Section: Back Page

Media Credit: Loren Kelly

Media Credit: Loren Kelly Yellow Chanterelles

Media Credit: Loren Kelly Bear's Head

Media Credit: Loren Kelly White Matsutakes

Every autumn, in the valleys that wind through North Idaho, a variety of flavors, rich and savory, emerge from the cover of moss and dirt. Now, as the cold nights of winter grow longer, the ground will soon freeze, marking the end of another fall mushroom season. According to NIC biology instructor Mike Kelly, mushrooms, often misunderstood, are actually the fruit of a nutrient-ingesting network of fine strands called mycelium.

"The majority of fungus you don't see," Kelly said. "Think of it as a network of branches. These branches, called hyphae, are one cell thick and many cells long. A network of hyphae is the mycelium."

Some mycelium can stretch out for miles. For instance, the largest living organism on Earth, covering more than 2,200 acres, is said to be a network of mycelium in the Blue Mountains of Eastern Oregon that produces the Honey Mushroom.

In Idaho, thick coniferous forests provide prime territory for several edible mushrooms, a few of which are highly prized for their tasty attributes. Mushrooms that aren't edible, on the other hand, vastly outnumber those that are plate-worthy, so steps to ensure a sound identification are worth taking.

A mushroom field-guide is an essential tool for any foraging trip. Not only does a guide provide a visual comparison of almost any mushroom, but it also contains key identification criteria including color, cap size and texture, description of gills (the underside of the mushroom cap), flesh density, stem thickness and smell.

Because a number of edible mushrooms have some poisonous look-a-likes, identifying an edible variety should be based on several characteristics, not just one.

An excellent mushroom for beginners, the Yellow Chanterelle, which also comes in white, blue and black varieties, is sometimes easy to spot because of its vibrant, golden color. However, chanterelles often remain covered by moss and topsoil, even when fully mature.

Meaty texture and a buttery flavor make sautéed chanterelles a stellar addition to any meal.

Viljo Basso, owner and chef of Japanese restaurant Syringa, hunts for wild mushrooms in his spare time and, when in season, serves them in his restaurant.

"The way I like to cook chanterelles starts with browned butter, which adds a little nuttiness," Basso said. "Then add mushrooms, salt, pepper, garlic and shallots. Perfect."

There are a few tricks to having a successful chanterelle hunt. The hardest mushroom to find is usually the first, but, with the first score in hand, recognizing the same color on the ground becomes much easier.

Basso, who has been picking mushrooms for years, elaborated on this technique.

"When you find that first one, just leave it alone and have other people come up and see it. This way everyone can see it in its natural state. It's a good way to train your eye."

Another good rule--come early and often. Because chanterelles usually reach full maturity after a couple of days, visiting a favorite hillside often will increase the chance of finding them before bugs, deer or other mushroom hunters.

Bear's Head, a species of tooth fungus, is also an easy mushroom to identify. Delicate and savory, Bear's Head is highly sought after in large cities.

It has a light, fluffy texture and a distinct flavor sometimes likened to shellfish. Naturally, this mushroom goes well with seafood, red-meat and in stir-fry.

A third local edible is the White Matsutake, or Western Pine Mushroom. Rated from one to four, one being the most choice, matsutakes go for as much as $100 per pound in Japan, $20-$60 stateside, depending on the market.

A rating of one indicates the caps are closed by a veil, or thin layer of film, covering the gills, thus protecting them from dirt. Less valuable, a rating of four has an open cap that Is more susceptable to parasites and harder to clean.

Similar to cinnamon, the White Matsutake's sweet, pungent aroma makes it an ideal ingredient in soup.

Basso, who served White Matsutake soup as an appetizer at his restaurant, said customers reacted well to the wild-grown treat.

"They loved it," said Basso."It's got a little bit of pine; a little bit of cinnamon; a bit of earthiness. Japanese people cherish it's ability to stand on its own."

Matsutakes, among others, are known as an indicator mushrooms. Among the last of the fall edibles to emerge, when matsutakes are abundant, the season is likely drawing to a close.

With a diverse selection of edible mushrooms available only miles from town, Coeur d'Alene is a forager's paradise.

"We're lucky," Basso said. "They don't have this in New York. In Japan, people even pay to to pick fresh matsutakes."

Now, with the first snow looming in the surrounding mountains, hunters sullk back in to their winter routines. But don't fret, foragers.

Soon, the snows will melt, and the hills that suround this village will burst with seasonal delicacies once again.

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